Thursday, February 4, 2010

Sambuca, Upper West Side

Good food. Miserable service.

When I called Sambuca to make a reservation, I was put on hold four times, asked for the same information several times, and it was repeated back to me incorrectly after each attempt. The woman said, "You have no idea the pressure I'm under!" No kidding, at 3 in the afternoon, at a place that doesn't begin serving till 5? I should have taken the hint.

The waiter:
Tried to seat us at a table for four, although we had a reservation for six
Brought only one gluten-free menu, though we said we were going to order GF
Couldn't answer basic questions (how many people does a family-style dish serve?)
Knocked over a glass of wine when picking up the menus, spilling on two people and their coats and bags
Brought the appetizer at the same time as the entrees, a good hour after we ordered
Disappeared -- no opportunity to order a second round of drinks or ask for more water or anything else
Brought a single dessert menu
Disappeared again
Picked up our payment and never brought back change
Gave us the hairy eyeball when we left.

Sambuca is one of only 10 gluten-free restaurants in Manhattan, and we were celebrating the birthday of our GF pal. We ordered family style: the grilled calamari appetizer, rice pasta Bolognese, chicken scarpariello, shrimp scampi and grilled asparagus.

The calamari was lighter than the usual breaded and fried variety, cut in strips instead of rings, tender and flavorful, thanks to lots of garlic and lemon in the sauce. The rice pasta elbow macaroni was cooked al dente, no mean feat, considering that a minute of overcooking can turn rice pasta to slimy shreds. The beef and tomato sauce brought to mind an upscale Hamburger Helper-type dish. The scampi was good without breaking any new ground. Everyone liked the Arborio rice that came with it.

The whole chicken was cut into serving-size pieces and was fork tender, though the Grumpy Diner had a piece that was way too rare close to the bone. The grilled asparagus was a hit.

Desserts ... massive servings, though we asked for individual, not family-style portions. Two huge, fudge-y pieces of flourless chocolate cake, a gluten-free brownie the size of a dinner plate, and frisbee-sized tiramisu, all garnished with chocolate sauce and whipped cream. All were very rich and delicious, but unfinishable. Leaving dessert on the table caused deep regret and guilt for at least one of us.

The host stopped by a couple of times to ask if everything was ok and seemed baffled when we brought up the service issues. He kind of wandered off without remedying anything. He treated the b'day girl to a GF brownie, and comped us a round of Moscato, but didn't offer an explanation or an apology.

The family-style portions are enormous. One appetizer, two entrees and two desserts would be more than enough for six people.

The place has a nice atmosphere and we certainly didn't feel rushed. But even the cheap dive bars that I hang out in have way better service than Sambuca. Takeout, anyone?

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