Grand Sichuan, Chelsea

It's been ages since I've been excited about Chinese food, but two visits to Grand Sichuan have rekindled my enthusiasm.


The menu is enormous and intriguing, with dishes named after green parrots and lovebirds (and then there's also Long Lift Vegetarian, undoubtedly a heavy meal, or the worrisome Grasp at Good Luck -- if you eat this?). I didn't really delve into the book-sized list, as our group of eight included several regulars who took over the ordering duties. We had a feast: old faves like soup dumplings and sesame noodles, and more unusual fare such as garlic sauteed pea shoots and fresh-killed chicken with about a bazillion dried red peppers.


I checked out Grand Sichuan again after a recent walk on the High Line. Again, we mixed and matched: crab soup dumplings, spicy sesame noodles, spinachy scallion pancakes, salt-and-pepper shrimp, sauteed three greens (baby bok choy, broccoli rabe and peapods -- a bit on the bland side, but immaculately fresh and crisp -- probably the most I've ever enjoyed broccoli rabe), and fresh killed chicken with green chilies and pumpkin (divine crisp-tender bright orange matchsticks, we debated if they were pumpkin or sweet potato -- didn't really taste sweet enough for a sweet potato, but not as watery, fibrous and bland as pumpkin can be, maybe some kind of squash).

Both meals were excellent. The dishes come out of the kitchen in rapid-fire succession, hot, savory and succulent. I'm probably spoiled forever for lukewarm takeout. The prices are surprisingly reasonable for the quality and quantity, and the preparation of even the most familiar dishes had a bit of a creative twist, like the spinach flour in the scallion pancakes.

Grand Sichuan is all about the food. It's crowded, it can get noisy, the decor is ... well ... maybe decor is an exaggeration, the service is efficient but not warm and cozy. On a weeknight you're welcome to linger and chat, but during Saturday prime time be prepared to dine and dash. About 30 seconds after our bill was paid, one of the employees announced that they needed our table.

I'm already imagining what I'll order next time.