Dateline: Aswan

"The better the view, the worse the cuisine" seems to be some kind of unwritten restaurant law. Think of every top-floor revolving restaurant you've ever been to, or any Chart House. If they can pull you in with some other element, they can build a clientele without having to rely on the food.

Nubian Home Restaurant is a stellar exception to the rule. Situated atop one of Aswan's highest hills, Nubian Home has a stunning three-sided view, overlooking the Nile, the city's skyline with its domed basilicas and towering mosques, Elephantine Island, the Temple at Philae, ruins of 11th-century fortifications, Aga Khan's tomb, and even the home of Egyptian pop star Mohammed Mounir.


To spend a pleasant hour or two at this vantage point watching feluccas and motorboats ply the Nile would be reward enough. An edible meal would be a nice extra. But the four courses served to our group at Nubian Home ranked among the best meals we had during two weeks of feasting in Egypt.

As with many Egyptian meals, this luncheon feast began with a selection of cool salads: white beans, chickpeas, and potatoes with a light mustard dressing. Tahini was provided for dipping chunks of light wheat bread, which was dusted with coarse whole-wheat flour. One of our fellow travelers commented that although the bread wasn't warm, it hadn't been out of the oven very long.

The next course consisted of three tagines -- earthenware dishes full of okra, eggplant, and meatballs, each tender and tasty in a different style of tomato-based sauce. I didn't expect to have much interest in the main course: grilled chicken with cous cous and crisp-tender vegetables. However, it was so excellently prepared and attractively presented, I almost ate the whole thing. That left no room for dessert: fresh whole bananas and peaches. I tucked a piece or two in my bag, in case I was ever hungry again.

The staff was welcoming, service efficient and nonintrusive.

As if the food and view were not enough, the Nubian Home even had some scarves and souvenirs for sale. A poly-sensual experiance, as MBTP might say.