Dateline: Nubia

A lot of the meals we ate in Egypt contained many of the same elements. Whether it was breakfast, lunch or dinner, there was likely to be a variety of breads, small dishes of olives, pickled veg, hummus, yogurt, fresh fruit, tomatoes, cucumbers, and more; plus plates of cold cuts and sliced cheeses.

Breakfast was likely to include grilled tomatoes topped with cheese, scrambled eggs, omelettes, beef or chicken sausage, hot and cold cereal, and fuul -- mashed fava beans, which you can self-season with red pepper, cumin, salt, lime juice and oil. Properly seasoned fuul is very tasty, though sometimes it was served in dishes labeled "foul," "fool," "fowl" or "crashed beans," none of which sound especially enticing.

Typical main courses for lunch and dinner include kofta (ground beef or lamb grilled as a kebab) or chicken, served with rice and veg. Fish is occasionally an option.

It took me a while to notice I was eating basically the same foods every day, because each cook put a unique spin on the ingredients and seasonings.

One example that really stands out is a barbecue luncheon served on an island in the middle of the Nile, catered by our hotel, the Basma in Aswan (right). Set and setting undoubtedly had a lot to do with my enjoyment of this particular meal -- seated in the shade at a beautifully appointed table within sight of the Nile on a gorgeous day -- but so did the way the chef handled the seasonings and the stove.

We spent the morning riding camels up to explore the ruins of San Simeon Monastery (circa 6th century AD), then visited a Nubian village where I wish I had bought a kora. Then our Nubian boatman motored us through the reeds in a scene that more than one of us compared to "The African Queen." It was a fun-filled morning, and in spite of the nice snacks provided at the Nubian village, I was actually hungry.

Once on the island, we sat at linen-draped tables under a pergola and dined on a selection of salads including spicy pickled vegetables, herbed olives and smoky baba ganoush. This chef seasoned very generously with black pepper and garlic. The main dishes included sea bass grilled in foil with tomatoes and peppers, crisp grilled chicken and cubes of tender beef. Cinnamon rice was provided, along with the usual white variety. Every bite was a delight.

I'm certain there was also dessert. There's a slight chance I may have skipped it, as the chicken was so good seconds were practically a necessity.