Thursday, November 6, 2008

Sophie's Cuban Cuisine

Sophie's is a carnivore's delight: succulent roast pork topped with thinly sliced onions, picadillo (a savory ground beef stew), and ropa vieja (tender shredded beef with veg) are my favorites. If I'm watching the cholesterol I'll go with the grilled chicken breast: the spicy version, topped with lightly cooked peppers (sweet and hot) onions and tomatoes, is a better bet than the plain grilled breast, which tends to be dry. Fried fish is usually moist and mild white fish in a crispy crumb crust. Shrimp in garlic sauce is mildly spicy, you'll want to ask for a spoon so you can enjoy every drop of the tomato-based sauce.

The meals come with two sides; I usually get red beans and yellow rice, though the black beans and white rice are good, too. The portions are generous and the food is hearty: Once, in search of a light meal, I ordered chicken noodle soup. It turned out to be a big bowl of rich yellow broth and abundant noodles, plus chunks of chicken, carrots, potatoes, and other veggies. It was delicious, but far from the humble cup of broth I had imagined.

The food is not spicy, but you can remedy that with the green sauce provided on each table: This wonderful puree of jalapenos, cilantro, garlic and onions will add the zing you seek.

I've eaten at most of this mini-chain's six or eight Manhattan locations. The food ranges from pretty good to excellent. When I worked downtown the New Street store was a regular lunch stop, and is still my fave. All the Sophie's stores have takeout and limited eat-in dining space.

Sophie's is a madhouse at lunchtime. If you want to sit and chat, plan to get there before noon or after 2. Some of the stores don't serve cafe con leche during the lunch rush -- lingering isn't encouraged when there's a line out the door.

The service is usually fast and friendly, though recently at the newish 23rd Street store I was waited on by a real beast. The service wasn't just bad, it was hostile. The restaurant was more than half empty, no doubt because there was a monsoon in progress, so she didn't need the table. She committed every service pet peeve anyone has ever griped about to me, from interrupting conversations to plate grabbing to failing to bring change.

For now, I'll stick with Sophie's other locations.