Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Henry's End, Brooklyn

Good dinner, nice service and atmosphere, great music -- early Nina Simone, Blue Trane-era Coltrane, very engaging stuff played at a volume that didn't preclude conversation.

Henry's End is a good place to go within walking distance of St. Ann's Warehouse. The long, narrow room with an open kitchen has a cozy, relaxed feel. Though the tables are close, I was comfortable. We were early, so the place wasn't crowded and I didn't overhear other people seated nearby.

Wines by the glass are posted on whiteboards around the restaurant, with five or six of each color. The chilly weather put me in the mood for a hearty red. I chose Uvaggio Barbera, which was a little rough and raw tasting. I may have sent it back if we weren't enjoying a bash-fest about people we know who send back everything all the time.

Two of us ordered Salmon Moroccan -- a rare grilled salmon fillet topped with a buttery herb and spice blend that included cumin, cayenne, cilantro, mint and green onions, flavorful but not overwhelming. The salmon itself was buttery-rich, with a wonderful silken texture. I loved it. And what's not to like about garlic mashed? Sugar snap peas arrived bright green and al dente, a nice textural contrast to the salmon and spuds. Both of us were in the clean plate club, though the salmon may have been a bit rare for Buck.

The Grumpy Diner ordered duck with zinfandel and blood orange glaze, a daily special. It was a boneless half duck, very tender and tasty. The sauce was tangier and far less sweet than is common in an orange glaze for duck. I had a couple of bites and liked it very much, though the Grumpy Diner said he preferred my pollo casero. Not that they're similar in any way.

Desserts were ok. Hard to complain about the quality, since I didn't order one myself, just had bitesies from my companions'. Persian lime pie was very tart and refreshing, though topped with canned whipped cream that I could have done without. The mud pie was exactly as described on the menu -- espresso and Kahlua laced coffee and chocolate ice cream in an Oreo crust with espresso fudge sauce -- but somehow way less interesting than it sounded.

I liked our waiter, he was smiling and pleasant, friendly without being intrusive or overly familiar. He did ask if we wanted change, which is a pet peeve of our friend the Bill-der. But he wasn't there, so we can just pretend it didn't happen.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Casa del Sol, Nyack

Good food and fun decor at this Nuevo Latino restaurant. The service was exceptionally good, without being hover-y.

Out waitress brought menus, water, salsa and chips right away and gave us a few minutes to settle in and look at the menu before asking for our drink order. My Cadillac margarita on the rocks was great, a nice balance of sweet (Grand Marnier) and citrus-y.

We had a lot to talk about over drinks, including some kitchen remod-related show-and-tell. The waitress gave us time and space, not coming over to take our dinner order till we gathered up our papers and signaled that we were ready.

The menu is a nice mix of Nuevo Latino fare, from tapas to enchilladas. We had some questions about the specials and asked the waitress to check out a few details for us, which she promptly and pleasantly did.

I ordered salmon in hojas de maize: the fillet was topped with corn and chipotle salsa, wrapped in cornhusk, grilled then steamed. The smoky salsa flavored the fish and corn nicely without overwhelming. Creamy garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed fresh carrots and red bell peppers came with it, a nice change from beans and rice.

My companion had a boneless rib steak with a sweet and smoky sauce. He's usually a dry rub guy, but he liked this treatment very much. The steak was tender and lean and went well with the seasoned spuds. Bright green crisp-fried spinach leaves had the snap and salt of potato chips.

Casa del Sol has a nice tea selection, making a pleasant end to the meal.

We felt very welcome, not at all rushed and were happy to linger over dinner and conversation for a couple of hours. The music created a nice ambience but didn't interfere with conversation. The busmen refilled water glasses and removed plates without interrupting our conversation and the waitress was responsive to all of our requests while giving us plenty of space.

There are a lot of attractive and tempting places to eat in Nyack, but Casa del Sol may be our regular place for a while.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Times Square Takeout

Ya gotta love a client who asks you to choose what you want to eat as your first task of the day. Since it was my first assignment at this particular place, I wasn't aware of the drill, so I had an early dinner before going in at 6. But being a "when in Rome ..." kind of person, I ordered chicken noodle soup and fruit salad when the Mangia menu came around.

It was about what I expected: a large container of pretty good though somewhat salty soup, and a small container of mostly underripe fruit.

The next night I brought my appetite. We ordered from Lazzara's Pizza. I was trying to stick to all of my various food restrictions that week (no allergy triggers, minimal cholesterol, counting weight watcher points, blah-blah), so my intentions were good when I ordered the grilled portobello appetizer. The menu description mentioned tomatoes and goat cheese, but it didn't mention the cup of oil and vinegar dressing that drowned the poor mushroom. I poured off as much as I could but the portobello had soaked up more than enough of it, and the bed of lettuce was unsalvageable. As much as I love garlic -- the predominant seasoning -- I felt a little self-conscious getting too close to any of my co-workers for the rest of the evening. The thin-crust individual-size pizzas looked and smelled divine, that'll be my choice next time.

The Vynl menu is half down home (meatloaf, mac-and-cheese, fried chicken) and half Asian-inspired (pad thai, General Tso's chicken, Thai red curry). A recent editing project had me researching Massaman curry, so when I saw it on the menu I wanted to check it out. Again, the description was inaccurate -- there was none of the promised broccoli and tons of the never-mentioned coconut milk. It was very white and bland: onions, tofu and rice in a white sauce. It was a huge portion -- I nibbled on it for a long time without making a dent. The coconut sauce probably brought the calories into the stratosphere. So much for my good intentions.

My last night on the job, the Hill Country BBQ menu was circulating when I walked in the door. As much as I love barbecue, I couldn't picture myself digging into chicken or ribs or a huge sandwich while trying to work on page proofs. And I was trying to be careful, remember? So I went for a couple of sides: the market salad and mac and cheese -- since my earlier attempts at being careful had gone so far astray, I thought the mac and cheese was practically like eating a rice cake. These were the best choices of the week. The market salad had a southwestern flair: crisp greens topped with corn, beans, avocado, grated cheese and red onion, with two dressings on the side, ranch and creamy chipotle. Very good. The mac and cheese was good, but I have the feeling I'm finally outgrowing baby food -- it's never as good as I think it will be.

It was a lot of fun to try such a variety of places and interesting to see how much the actual dishes varied from the menu description. Hope this thoughtful and generous client calls me again.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

A Tale of Two Takeouts

The Grumpy Diner had a cold recently and was convinced that only regular doses of wonton soup could cure him.

We're in the market for a new favorite Chinese takeout place, since Aberdeen is pricey, we're tired of David King, Hito has closed and Hunan Village II is now known as "that place with the awful food." In the interest of good health, we tried two new places.

On day one of the wonton soup-cure mission, we picked up lunch at Haiku in White Plains. The place would get high marks for decor and ambience, lots of sleek wood, exposed brick, hanging paper lamps, warm colors and lighting. After we placed our order, the hostess offered us a seat at the bar and asked if we'd like a cup of tea or some water, a nice touch.

The food came out fast and was still hot by the time we got home. The wonton soup was ok, the hot and sour was a better choice -- slices of chewy, meaty black mushrooms clusters of enoki, julienned tofu and pork in a rich, tangy stock. I wasn't the sick one, but eating it made me feel better anyway.

One entree, black-pepper steak with baby bok choy, was outstanding: tender, flavorful beef in a light sauce, paired with thumb-sized bok choy. The other entree, shrimp pad Thai, was beautifully presented, with noodles, shrimp shredded veg and crushed nuts artfully arranged in the takeout container. It was fresh and quite tasty, very good. One gripe: Both dishes were supposed to be spicy, neither was.

Still in search of a cure, the next day we tried South East in Scarsdale. Appearance-wise, it was a marked contrast to Haiku: a humble storefront with a handful of tables, glaring fluorescent lighting, and a couple of cold cases for drinks.

But the wonton soup more than made up for the lack of ambience. Rich broth seasoned with shredded watercress and thin slices of ginger, garlic and green onions, and light dumplings redolent of the same seasonings, yum. The entrees were tasty, but not as good as Haiku. Thai pepper chicken had a lot of bell pepper chunks, pineapple and a sweet-and-sour sauce, not really what I was expecting. The pad thai was ok, kind of gloppy, I'd probably order something else next time. And guess what, neither dish was spicy, in spite of being marked on the menu with the chili icon.

I'd be willing to order from either place again, but am still in the market for a new favorite.

The Grumpy Diner still has a cough, wonder if I should order some wonton soup tonight ...

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Sambuca, Upper West Side

Good food. Miserable service.

When I called Sambuca to make a reservation, I was put on hold four times, asked for the same information several times, and it was repeated back to me incorrectly after each attempt. The woman said, "You have no idea the pressure I'm under!" No kidding, at 3 in the afternoon, at a place that doesn't begin serving till 5? I should have taken the hint.

The waiter:
Tried to seat us at a table for four, although we had a reservation for six
Brought only one gluten-free menu, though we said we were going to order GF
Couldn't answer basic questions (how many people does a family-style dish serve?)
Knocked over a glass of wine when picking up the menus, spilling on two people and their coats and bags
Brought the appetizer at the same time as the entrees, a good hour after we ordered
Disappeared -- no opportunity to order a second round of drinks or ask for more water or anything else
Brought a single dessert menu
Disappeared again
Picked up our payment and never brought back change
Gave us the hairy eyeball when we left.

Sambuca is one of only 10 gluten-free restaurants in Manhattan, and we were celebrating the birthday of our GF pal. We ordered family style: the grilled calamari appetizer, rice pasta Bolognese, chicken scarpariello, shrimp scampi and grilled asparagus.

The calamari was lighter than the usual breaded and fried variety, cut in strips instead of rings, tender and flavorful, thanks to lots of garlic and lemon in the sauce. The rice pasta elbow macaroni was cooked al dente, no mean feat, considering that a minute of overcooking can turn rice pasta to slimy shreds. The beef and tomato sauce brought to mind an upscale Hamburger Helper-type dish. The scampi was good without breaking any new ground. Everyone liked the Arborio rice that came with it.

The whole chicken was cut into serving-size pieces and was fork tender, though the Grumpy Diner had a piece that was way too rare close to the bone. The grilled asparagus was a hit.

Desserts ... massive servings, though we asked for individual, not family-style portions. Two huge, fudge-y pieces of flourless chocolate cake, a gluten-free brownie the size of a dinner plate, and frisbee-sized tiramisu, all garnished with chocolate sauce and whipped cream. All were very rich and delicious, but unfinishable. Leaving dessert on the table caused deep regret and guilt for at least one of us.

The host stopped by a couple of times to ask if everything was ok and seemed baffled when we brought up the service issues. He kind of wandered off without remedying anything. He treated the b'day girl to a GF brownie, and comped us a round of Moscato, but didn't offer an explanation or an apology.

The family-style portions are enormous. One appetizer, two entrees and two desserts would be more than enough for six people.

The place has a nice atmosphere and we certainly didn't feel rushed. But even the cheap dive bars that I hang out in have way better service than Sambuca. Takeout, anyone?

Pete's Park Place Tavern, Bronxville

Pete's occupies two storefronts: One side has a lunch counter and booths, the other has a bar and booths. It's a real neighborhood joint, comfy, casual, convenient (right around the corner from the movie theater), unpretentious. Lots of stuff on the menu for under $10. No frill, no thrills in either decor or cuisine.

All three of us ordered the same thing: a decent, meaty burger with iceberg lettuce, yellow American cheese, pinkish tomato slices, served with a mountain of bland mashed potatoes (in lieu of pale fries) and a garlic pickle. The thick, hand-formed burger patty was the size of the supermarket bun it was served on, kind of a nice change from the enormous burgers that have skewed our idea of a normal serving size. Mine was cooked medium, nice and juicy.

There's something old-fashioned and oddly appealing about the (lack of) ambience. I want to try Pete's for breakfast. And I'd definitely go back for a quick pre-movie bite.