Caffe Martier

Here's a nice place for coffee, pastry and a chat. It was delightfully not-crowded on the Saturday after Christmas. My latte was hot, dark, rich and smooth. I sampled the hot chocolate, topped with frothed milk and a chocolate-syrup design, it was excellent.

All of the desserts and pastries looked delicious and a waiter described each type for us. We shared a tropical fruit confection that was totally delightful.

We kept an eye on the dishes delivered to other tables, everything looked really good, including the crepes. The portions are big at Caffe Martier, sharing is a good idea.

Observer effect

In the past year, I've noticed the observer effect kicking in regarding my restaurant experiences. According to Wikipedia, my source for all things physics-related, "In experimental research, the term observer effect refers to changes that the act of observing will make on the phenomenon being observed."

None of my recent restaurant meals have qualified as phenomenal, but the possibility that I might blog about them makes me observe them differently, almost as if I'm simultaneously verbalizing or notating my impressions, rather than just chowing down.

I'm related to a long line of people who never forgot a single bite of food that ever entered their mouths. I thought that gene had skipped me. But these days I remember meals in great detail. I come across a takeout menu and recall, "That's the place where the fries tasted sort of fishy ..."

And those pet peeves about service that you've all confided to me over the years? I'm noticing them, too. Glancing through the stack of receipts on my desk brings to mind the waiter who didn't break up my change into anything smaller than a 10, perhaps in hopes of a larger tip. Or the waitress who asked if we were done, while we were still chewing, forks hovering over half-full plates. Or the dreaded query, "Do you want change?"

The funny thing is, none of these things have interfered with my enjoyment whatsoever. I don't think the food or service is any better or worse than what I've experienced over the years. I still have a good time and enjoy myself practically every time I go out.

But I do notice things more, and think about what components add up to a positive or negative restaurant experience. And all of those thoughts are bound to end up posted here, sooner or later.

Malabar Hill, Elmsford, NY

There was a hair in my raita.

Check out Uncle WestFester's complete (and more positive) take on Malabar Hill.

Tsuru, Hartsdale, NY

Two restaurants have recently stayed open for me after the posted closing time, that's either a sign of the economy or of the charmed company I keep.

We pulled up in front of Tsuru after 9, just as the owner was opening the front door. We rolled down the window to ask him how late they were open. He replied, "9:30, but please come in."

Once inside, I settled in the empty dining room with the Jazz Den Mother and sister blogger Mean Cuisine. We hadn't seen each other for a while, and an S&S (sushi and sake) get-together was way overdue. We placed our order, with the waiter nodding his approval at some of our choices, in particular plum paste with mint roll. I enjoy sake, but know next to nothing about it, so I chose a small carafe of Kurosawa in honor of one of my favorite film directors.

Green tea and excellent, full-bodied miso soup arrived promptly, followed by our assortment of rolls, including fried salmon, soft-shell crab, river eel and avocado, rainbow, and yellowfin. We were ready for our dish fest, and we dug in, literally and metaphorically.

Our rolls had a nice balance of crispy and tender, pungent and subtle, rich and sharp. So did our conversation. The staff stopped by occasionally to pour tea and sake, and to clear the dishes once we joined the clean plate club.

We were still deep in conversation at 10:30 when the owner let us know he'd like to close up shop.

Tsuru is one of my favorite places for lunch or dinner in the area, and probably my favorite place for sushi except for Sakagura in Manhattan. The service can be brusque at times, but the food is consistently excellent, and I was thrilled that they accommodated us by staying open an extra hour.

Hunan Village II, Hartsdale

Dinner was excellent at Hunan Village II in Hartsdale last night. Everyone in our group of seven, which included at least one serious foodie, was pleased.

Hunan Village II is several steps above your average Chinese restaurant. The menu doesn't include all of the tired old take-out choices, and the restaurant doesn't smell of stale peanut oil. That in itself is a treat.

There's a menu page devoted to creating your own meal by choosing either chicken, beef, pork, shrimp, adding one of a half-dozen or so sauces, three fresh veg from a long list, and a prep style (stir fried, sauteed or steamed). Several of us tried and enjoyed this do-it-yourself option; it's a nice feature.

The presentation was beautiful and the food was delicious and fresh, including baby bok choy so tiny and crisp it could pass as infant bok choy! My dish contained an abundance of oxymoronically large shrimp. My only complaint: the allegedly hot and spicy Hunan sauce was too mild. I'm sure the waiter could have remedied that, but I was too involved in conversation to pursue it.

The dining room is sleek and quiet. We could actually hear one another across the table. We all had a chance to chat and catch up and find out how our various businesses are going, from knitting to jewelry-making to fine art to freelancing.

(See Uncle WestFester's February 2008 post about Hunan Village in Yonkers.)

Sophie's Cuban Cuisine

Sophie's is a carnivore's delight: succulent roast pork topped with thinly sliced onions, picadillo (a savory ground beef stew), and ropa vieja (tender shredded beef with veg) are my favorites. If I'm watching the cholesterol I'll go with the grilled chicken breast: the spicy version, topped with lightly cooked peppers (sweet and hot) onions and tomatoes, is a better bet than the plain grilled breast, which tends to be dry. Fried fish is usually moist and mild white fish in a crispy crumb crust. Shrimp in garlic sauce is mildly spicy, you'll want to ask for a spoon so you can enjoy every drop of the tomato-based sauce.

The meals come with two sides; I usually get red beans and yellow rice, though the black beans and white rice are good, too. The portions are generous and the food is hearty: Once, in search of a light meal, I ordered chicken noodle soup. It turned out to be a big bowl of rich yellow broth and abundant noodles, plus chunks of chicken, carrots, potatoes, and other veggies. It was delicious, but far from the humble cup of broth I had imagined.

The food is not spicy, but you can remedy that with the green sauce provided on each table: This wonderful puree of jalapenos, cilantro, garlic and onions will add the zing you seek.

I've eaten at most of this mini-chain's six or eight Manhattan locations. The food ranges from pretty good to excellent. When I worked downtown the New Street store was a regular lunch stop, and is still my fave. All the Sophie's stores have takeout and limited eat-in dining space.

Sophie's is a madhouse at lunchtime. If you want to sit and chat, plan to get there before noon or after 2. Some of the stores don't serve cafe con leche during the lunch rush -- lingering isn't encouraged when there's a line out the door.

The service is usually fast and friendly, though recently at the newish 23rd Street store I was waited on by a real beast. The service wasn't just bad, it was hostile. The restaurant was more than half empty, no doubt because there was a monsoon in progress, so she didn't need the table. She committed every service pet peeve anyone has ever griped about to me, from interrupting conversations to plate grabbing to failing to bring change.

For now, I'll stick with Sophie's other locations.

Cafe Mirage, Port Chester

We've tried Cafe Mirage a few times, with mixed results. The menu is intriguing: It's hard to order because I want practically everything. The results have been inconsistent.

The hits: lobster bisque, smoked duck and goat cheese quesadilla, pan fried oysters with hollandaise, a spicy rib steak, a pasta special featuring a lightly sauced spaghetti with seafood; chocolate-topped pumpkin cheesecake. Each of these were so good I'd happily reorder them over and over, if only the rest of the menu didn't beckon so seductively.

The misses: oyster chowder that tasted only of celery, a very light butternut squash soup that also tasted of nothing but celery, steamed little necks with garlic and chorizo -- one of the saltiest dishes I've ever confronted.

The seafood gumbo manages to land in both categories: the seafood was tender and fresh, totally delightful. The gumbo's dark-brown roux had a scorched bitter taste. I picked out the seafood and left the rest.

Service, too, is hit and miss. A woman who may be the owner is remarkably helpful, recommending wine pairings, happy to offer tastes and discuss the different preparations. The other wait staff are ok to barely competent.

However, what they get right is so good I'd be willing to give them another chance.

Rosemary's Texas Taco, Patterson, NY

The decor is the star at Texas Taco, from the moment you park your car on the fancifully painted lot, and walk past the toys and carnival horses and tot-size toy Indian motorcycle in the front yard, up the wonky steps into the other-worldly interior.

Pass the sign that says "No photos," then place your order right inside the door with Rosemary, an eye-makeup goddess who would make Divine look sedate. Find a seat at a glass-topped table festooned with a half-dozen layers of gauze and lame and chintz and Xmas lights. Add your business card to the scores already tucked under the glass. Then, as you await the arrival of your food, let your eyes feast on the lava lamps, the bust of Elvis, the gold-painted saddle, the photos of Marilyn, the neon sign, bead curtains, and scores of other miscellaneous strange and kitschy items.

Be sure to visit the restroom. At an unexpected moment you may be serenaded by Ringo singing "Act Naturally" or Gloria Gaynor's "I Will Survive." An enormous clam shell subs as a wastebasket, the sink and toilet seat are gold encrusted, a skull serves as a doorknob ... you won't want to leave, there's too much to look at.

The list of food available is short and simple (tacos, hot dogs, burritos, chili); it's tasty, freshly prepared while you wait and dirt cheap (most items are two or three bucks); there's always classic rock playing. The place is a total trip. Go. Now.

Ernesto's Ristorante, White Plains

We were hungry and wanted to talk, so even though it was way too early for dinner we headed out to the closest place where I could get the pasta I was craving. We got to Ernesto's at about 5:15. No way were they ready for customers (the head waiter was buttoning his shirt as we came in), but they welcomed us graciously and offered our choice of tables.

Several waiters promptly brought ice water and a basket of bread, and we got into the menus and conversation. Ernesto's has great bread -- crispy crust and light center, yum! We let the staff know we were in no hurry, and they provided some focaccia pizza fingers on the house to tide us over till we made our decisions.

We eventually ordered lasagne, sauteed escarole, chicken tasca (chicken breast stuffed with proscuitto, spinach and more, served with a brown mushroom gravy), one seltzer and one wine. They brought two wines, took one away, never brought the seltzer. It took a while for our food to arrive, and when it did, it was barely lukewarm. Kind of odd, since we were the only people in the place, and takeout from Ernesto's is usually delivered piping hot, regardless of the time of day.

Everything was pretty good, the chicken was a little overdone but tasty, and the serving of lasagne was big enough to share and relatively light -- lots of ground beef, no ricotta. The escarole, which many places serve overcooked and waterlogged, was right up with the best I've had: crisp, bright green, very fresh tasting, lots of garlic, divino!

We order takeout from Ernesto's way more often than we actually go there, and it's likely that we'll stick to takeout in the future. The takeout prices are one-third to one-half lower, and while the restaurant is comfortable enough, it's not the kind of place you'd seek out for its ambience. The dining room is very, very simple -- Zagat's gives it a "7" for decor.

Granted, we were quite early, but the staff seemed kind of flummoxed, the food was tepid, and our bill was screwed up (they apologetically fixed it once it was pointed out). Eating there in the future isn't entirely out of the question, but we're likely to give some of the other local places a try before we head back to Ernesto's.

Asian Temptation, White Plains

Based on first impressions, our late lunch could have been a bust. The insipid pop music was too loud and too beat-oriented; the long, narrow dining room was cavernous and way too dark for a bright fall afternoon; and although the menu offered lots of flavored green teas (some for as much as $8 a pot), there was no plain ol' regular green tea. The place seemed gimmicky. But, hey, we were there to talk and catch up, and the cushiony chairs were comfy, so I knew I was likely to have a very good time.

The white miso soup was so-so, the veggie hot and sour was sinus-clearingly spicy. The five rolls, chosen by committee, were quite good. Everyone's favorite was the spider roll, featuring crisp and succulent soft-shell crab. The others (tuna, Alaska, rainbow, and eel-and-cucumber) were all very tasty and very attractively presented on a square platter garnished with grated radish and a marigold blossom.

The "regular" coffee was a nice surprise, served Thai-style in a pot with sweet, rich condensed milk.

The service was ok, we didn't feel pressured to hurry out of the practically deserted restaurant. So our hang and chat lasted almost two hours.

We all agreed we'd be back.

Cosmic Jolt Cyber Cafe, Buhl, Idaho

Here's a south central Idaho hot spot that serves latte strong enough to wake the dead. At least that's the effect it had on me.

It's a gracious gathering spot in downtown Buhl that attracts everyone from weathered truckers and ranchers to neatly coiffed grannies. There's a Rolodex on the front counter where regulars can keep their coffee cards as they accrue points for future freebies.

The owner's sister, a local real estate agent, comes in to help out when things are slow in her own business, which is often these days. Once she conducted an informal survey as to whether tiny Buhl could support another quilting shop, now that the old one has moved to Twin Falls.







The Cosmic Jolt is in an old storefront with high, coved, pressed-tin ceilings; stucco walls; a row of stained-glass windows at transom level; and scuffed blond hardwood floors. There's a space in the back with a mini-library and a big table that would be ideal for book club meetings. Crafts and beading supplies are for sale up-front, along with "Sagebrush Days 2008" T-shirts that benefit the local fire and EMS volunteers.





This was my "corner office" on a couple of recent mornings. I prepared questions for several phone interviews, made some calls, got good and caffeinated and ready to face the day.

The Jolt has a great breakfast burrito, with piping hot bright yellow scrambled eggs, citrus-y salsa, ham, mushrooms, and cheese on a chewy flour tortilla. The daily special clam chowder was tasty, a bit over-thickened, but the clams were tender and flavorful. Another special, the dagwood sandwich, consists of a combination of every kind of meat and cheese they have on hand. A cup of soup and half a sandwich makes a hearty lunch.

Each table holds an antique bowl full of gummy candy. That was a big hit with me, since I love fish in all forms including Swedish.

It's hard to spend a 20-dollar bill in here, but it's fun to try.

Penzeys Spices, Norwalk, Ct.

Penzeys has a catalog, but a visit to the mother ship is a lot of fun for anyone who loves to cook. Hundreds of spices, herbs, extracts and blends are offered for sale. The prices for most items are more reasonable than in the average supermarket, the selection is better, and the flavors are livelier.

Another plus: There are big apothecary jars of each spice, which you can pop open to get some idea of what you're buying. Never heard of galangal? Not sure which of the curry powders is right for you? Wanna make sure the herbes de Provence doesn't smell like potpourri? Open the jar and take a whiff.

It's hard to walk out of there with fewer than a dozen items, but they'll spice up your life for months to come.

Hogue Fume Blanc

This is one of the house wines at Garage on 7th Ave. South in the Village, which is a fun hang. After enjoying it at Garage, I've started buying it by the bottle from time to time. It's light and citrus-y, and at $8-$11, the price is certainly right.

The funny thing is, whenever or wherever I buy it, the cashier usually says, "This is really good wine!" This has even happened when I've bought this inexpensive fume blanc along with several other wines that are far more expensive, and that are highly rated by Wine Spectator or the like.

It's a good summer wine, with the staff seal of approval from Aries to Zachy's.

Omai, NY

The Vietnamese-inspired Omai is orders of magnitude more creative and fully realized than the diners, dives and dens I usually frequent. It may be my favorite place to eat right now.

I've been there a half-dozen times in the past year. The food has always been excellent and everyone who works there is so nice. I was in the neighborhood last week with the Grumpy Diner, and we impulsively decided to see if we could get in without a reservation. We were seated immediately at the only vacant deuce.

We ordered four dishes to share. I practically gasped with delight at the first taste of seafood dumpling soup -- the rich, basil-infused broth had just a hint of garlic and ginger. The dumpling wrapper was paper thin, slightly al dente, stuffed with tender, tasty chopped shrimp. Delightful.

Velvety-textured seared tuna was wrapped in crispy greens and came with a mildly spicy soy-based dipping sauce. Bun cha pork was cooked to the consistency of crisp bacon and had an intense, concentrated meat flavor. It was served with plain rice-vermicelli, lettuce, and some slightly funky preserved cabbage and carrot salad. The funk was a nice contrast to the other flavors and textures.

Our entree, grilled scallops, shrimp and veg over several squares of tender rice noodles in lime and basil sauce, contained the largest scallops I've ever seen. They were meltingly tender. Veg included eggplant, zucchini, asparagus and green beans, all lightly grilled and delightfully tasty.

I recommend making a reservation on the early side. Once the place fills up -- and it has every time I've been there -- it's so loud it's impossible to hold a conversation. Omai attracts an interesting crowd, so it's always fun to eavesdrop on the people at adjoining tables, or even those across the room who you can hear because of an odd acoustic bounce. Or you can play a one-person game of "telephone" and try to imagine what your companion is talking about.

Or you can do what I usually do: focus on the excellent food and the spare but interesting decor, and catch up on the conversation later, over tea and dessert elsewhere.

Jefferson Diner, Lake Hopatcong, NJ

The exterior of this gleaming chrome diner looks like it's hand-waxed daily. It sparkles, even on a cloudy day. The place also twinkles inside, with Lucite ceiling fans, mirrors in all shapes and sizes, etched glass, several shades of neon, and shining dessert cases with a huge selection of sweets displayed on slowly revolving shelves. Some of the upholstery patterns look Uncle Louie-inspired, in dazzling color combinations.

The menu, of course, is enormous, and the kitchen sends out plates the size of buffet platters in a steady stream. The Jefferson offers more kinds of french fries than I've ever seen in one place, including Midnight Disco fries (brown gravy) and a combo platter with regular, spicy, waffle, and sweet potato fries. It's a great place to go if you're hungry enough to eat a horse, or just spent the afternoon riding one.

My ideal meal includes tastes of a lot of different things, so I opted for a salad with grilled chicken, roast peppers, fresh mozzarella, grilled portobellos, and even some nice crisp greens, with balsamic vinaigrette. Those ingredients yielded lots of tasty combinations, including mini-sandwiches I built on the accompanying pita. Pita usually tastes stale and cardboard-y to me, but this had a nice, chewy, almost bagel-like consistency.

Want some more hot water for your tea? The waitress delivers a new cup of steaming water, plus a new bag, each time. Bad news if you're watching your caffeine intake, and washing all those cups probably isn't totally environmentally sound. Still, it's hard to fault them for being so eager to please.

Pleasantville Diner, Pleasantville, NY

This is a good place to have a bite while talking over the movie you've just seen at the Jacob Burns. The menu is enormous, but simple preparations are better. My Greek-style roast chicken was a tender half chicken with a nice garlic, lemon and parsley sauce. Dinner included a big Greek salad with romaine, feta, tomato, olives, cucumber, onion and dolma, all very fresh; roast potatoes, mashed potatoes (two kinds of spuds? go figure!), and steamed veg. I opted to skip the bread basket the waiter offered. Even without it, I took home enough leftovers for two more meals. Cooked veg are the diner's downfall: They look nice and bright and fresh, but are soggy and tasteless. The menu includes a big selection of meal-size salads with grilled chicken or fish. Based on the Greek salad that came with dinner, I'm likely to choose from that page on my next visit.

David King, White Plains

Back in the day when we lived on takeout, David King was practically on our speed dial. Feeling swamped with work last week, we "treated" ourselves to an order of old faves. Everything was so-so, pretty bland, except for the supposedly spicy garlic broccoli. That was sweet and oily. Delivery used to be super-fast, we'd joke about expecting to hear the doorbell within minutes of hanging up the phone. Not this time. It was a half-hour or 40 minutes.

Now I'm in the market for another place in White Plains that will deliver decent Chinese food.

Elephant, NYC

Early Friday evening, the Jazz Den Mother and I had just about an hour to grab a bite before going to see “My Name is Albert Ayler” at the Film Archives. After a quick phone call to her son the DJ for a recommendation, we headed for Elephant, where the host greeted us like old friends, though we’d never been there before.

The Thai-influenced menu had many appealing choices, with plenty of vegetarian options. After some discussion we chose three small plates (Thai cucumber salad, sautéed garlic broccoli and cold noodles with veg) and a vegetarian entrée (Bamboo Chili "Chicken" in Red Curry Base with Lime Leaves & Basil, served with jasmine rice).

The food came out fast. The entrée was good. The small plates were outstanding. The first bite of broccoli, with luscious caramelized garlic and a touch of sesame oil, was sublime. The crisp cucumber was cut in wedges, seasoned with a slightly spicy dressing, a nice contrast in flavors and textures. The servings were generous, prices were reasonable.

The welcoming atmosphere deserves special mention. The Jazz Den Mother’s son the DJ dropped in with three of his friends, got a beer from the bar, sat down to chat, wandered outside to eat some food they’d picked up on the way over, wandered back in again, nibbled off our dishes, it was a nice, casual hang. We left them there, finishing up our leftovers.

As we hurried off to see the movie, we discussed our ordering strategy for next time: we’re going to skip the entrée and choose more small plates, including a yummy sounding crab cake.

The movie was pretty amazing.

Leo's Steak Shop - Philly

Last Saturday, Libra Zebra and I were taken by long-time Philadelphia friends to a small take-out cheesesteak restaurant called "Leo's Steak Shop". Technically Leo’s is not in Philadelphia, it's at 1403 Chester Pike in suburban Folcroft, (Sharon Hill area), but it's all down there to me.

I had a small (18”!!) Cheesesteak Hoagie, which had lettuce and fried onions on it, and the Zebra had a mushroom cheesesteak. It was hot, fresh and cheap and not too greasy, unlike the disgusting bags of grease served to tourists at Gino's, Pat's and Jim's.

The large sandwich would be impossible to eat, as it's longer than my arm (don't eat anything longer than your arm?). The one complaint our Philly friends have about Leo’s: too much meat. The meat is piled on high.

Now we’ve got to go back to Dalessandro's Steaks (Henry Av & Wendover St., Roxborough, Philadelphia (215)-482-5407), and see if it’s still the best in our mind, although I’m still an Oscar’s fan.

Leo’s Steak House - 1403 Chester Pike, Folcroft, PA 610-586-1199

Pier View, Yonkers

Relaxing and noshing with a couple of fellow FoodSouls on a sunny afternoon, gazing down the twinkling Hudson at the GW bridge and the Manhattan skyline...it's easy to believe life doesn't get any better than this. But it does, when a Pier View staffer pops open the French windows, allowing the fresh early spring breeze to waft in. Ah ...

Al fresco dining season is right around the corner and Pier View would be a good venue for it. Come summer, the free concerts in the mini-amphitheater on the waterfront may be close enough to provide a live sound track for the excellent people watching, which was already in swing on a lazy Saturday in April.

Oh, yes, the food. I'd almost forgotten about that. There's nothing too exciting on the menu, but what I tasted was good. The soup du jour, New England clam chowder, is easy to get wrong. Pier View's version was nicely prepared, with tender clams, a bit of thyme, and a light, barely thickened broth. The crispy cheese quesadilla was served with an abundance of fresh, cool guacamole, snappy salsa, and sour cream. I also enjoyed the fries and olives I swiped from the other FoodSouls.

Overall, the prices are reasonable, though some of the pricing seemed odd. How can fish and chips cost more than grilled shrimp? And the Cobb salad with a ton of toppings including chicken, eggs, bacon, cheese and avocado, is just a buck or two more than the modest garden variety.

The service was friendly, and we felt welcome to linger. Which brings me to a word of warning: the parking patrol keeps a close eye on the lot at the end of the block, so be sure to feed the meter. We all got tickets, including one written just two minutes past the expiration time. Kind of a letdown, after such a nice afternoon.

Sonora Restaurant, Port Chester, NY

There are a lot of elements that make up a fine dining experience. It’s more than just the food. The service is an important element, as is the décor, the tableware, comfortable seating, and general ambiance. One thing that always impresses me is the aroma. If you walk into a restaurant, it should smell like someone’s been cooking an inviting meal. I’ve turned around and left cafes that had either an unappetizing nose when I entered, or no aroma at all.

Chef Rafael Palomino's Nuevo Latino restaurant, Sonora, knocks it out of the park on aroma, and on every other element that makes a fine dining experience. After being turned on to Sonora by Uncle WestFester a few years back, it’s become one of my absolute favorite spots. Palomino can do no wrong in my mind, and Hudson Valley Restaurant Week gave us the opportunity to enjoy the atmosphere and food while spending a little less.

I had the seared free-range chicken stuffed with Colombian chorizo, goat cheese and sweet plantain served over sautéed spinach (shown above), which was boned and perfect. Every course is unusual, Sonora presents Latin specialties from Spain, Mexico, Argentina, Peru, etc., yet seasoned with care.

The decor at Sonora is interesting and soothing, with Southwestern colors and paintings, and you can talk! The service is perfect: always attentive but not too familiar, there when you need it, and gone when you don’t want to be disturbed.

I love saving money, but Sonora is a place for eating at any time of the year.

Route 66 Cafe, New York

The Route 66 Cafe would be a great place to grab a quick bite near Columbus Circle, if only it were quick.

The menu lists standard diner fare, such as wraps, club sandwiches, soups and salads, but the execution is a step up from your average coffee shop cuisine. I was practically split-pea green with envy over the Grumpy Diner's chicken noodle soup, with its rich broth, chunks of white chicken, and fine egg noodles.

However, the service is a comedy of errors. There are plenty of people hovering, asking if everything is ok, and they come over promptly to find out what you want whenever you make eye contact.

But then they do nothing. You can ask three or four people for a soup spoon or mustard or a glass of water and receive none of the above. An even higher level of persistence is necessary to secure the return of your credit card at meal's end.

In the un-diner-like 20 minutes or more that it takes for the daily special to arrive, it's kind of entertaining to see a waiter ask everyone in the room if they ordered 7-Up (no, but someone did want a Coke), and watch the bowls of soup get sent back till they deliver the right kind (third time's the charm!).

On the daily special, maybe you'll get a bowl of soup instead of a cup, and maybe it will have croutons, and maybe it will be served with a basket of bread. Maybe it will show up after your finished eating your wrap, or maybe it will never arrive ...

The cafe seems to aspire to greater things when it grows up: It's the only diner-esque place I've ever been to that has the chef's name on the menu. The food is excellent, the price is right, and you're likely to have enough leftovers for another meal or two. But don't count on a quick in and out.

Do I plan to go back? Yeah, sure.

Carnegie Deli, New York

What’s the difference between a Carnegie Deli sandwich and a banjo player? A Carnegie Deli sandwich can feed a family of four!

Oops, sorry, the Carnegie’s history as a long-time hang for stand-up comedians (see “Broadway Danny Rose”) made my Catskill-itis kick in. Guess I gotta get back into attending those 12-step meetings for those of us who compulsively make bad jokes…

Actually, two sandwiches from the Carnegie Deli is all you need for a meal that resembles a modern-day reenactment of the Bible story about the loaves and fishes: It's enough to feed a multitude.

On a recent visit, the turkey on rye was no frills, simply fresh-sliced, juicy turkey breast piled high on crisp-crusted, light-textured seeded rye. The open-faced Reuben was a thing of beauty: lean, flavorful corned beef; crisp, mild sauerkraut; a dense coating of melted, smoky-tasting Swiss cheese; marble rye that didn’t get soggy even after the sandwich had cooled in its take-out container. What’s not to like?

The counterman provided mustard, Russian dressing and several kinds of pickles on the side. Potato salad and mac salad were ok, but nothing to blog about.

Why does everyone take an immediate dislike to banjo players? It saves time!

Stop me before I joke again …

LaCenter Tavern, LaCenter, Wash.

The LaCenter Tavern would be my regular hang if it weren’t 3,000 miles away. The food menu, featuring homey choices like meatloaf and shepherd’s pie, is short and simple. The beer menu is the opposite, with probably a dozen brands on tap and maybe 100 more in bottles. Close to two-dozen wines are offered, sensibly served in stubby, stemless Riedel O Collection-style glasses. The joint might get rockin’, but the glasses won’t.

The price is right, too. Beers range from $2.50 for mass-produced domestic brands to $6 for oversize bottles of Arrogant Bastard. Sparkling J wine by the bottle is a great deal, listed on the menu for about $10 more than I’ve paid for it at wine stores in Westchester.

During a recent sisters and friends field trip to the LaCenter Tavern, we ordered a Greek salad and a cheese plate to share. The salad included mesclun, feta and black olives, tossed with an herb-y oil-and-vinegar dressing. Tasty. The cheese plate consisted of three kinds of cheese, three kinds of bread, crisp sliced apples, and a balsamic and olive oil dip. Everything was delicious, and there was plenty for everyone to enjoy.

Our overworked waitress charged us half price for the cheese plate, because it didn’t include the specific type of blue cheese mentioned on the menu. Nice touch. None of us had noticed – or even particularly cared – if it was Maytag blue or Kenmore. The noshes were just one aspect in the sisters and friends Saturday night, rockin’ out and dancin’ to the Catillacs.

This rockabilly band, which has monthly gigs scheduled at the tavern through the summer, has a solid, eclectic repertoire from the ’50s and ’60s. They mix in obscure material from JB Hutto and Albert King with more standard fare popularized by Chuck Berry, Wilson Pickett and Johnny Cash. Guitarist Richard Bean played wicked slide on a 1965-vintage Danelectro, and got the packed house on its feet. The audience loved the music, and made it rain money when the jewelry maven passed the tip jar during the band’s breaks.

A good time was had by all.

Astoria Thai Cuisine and Seafood, Astoria, Ore.

The jewelry maven doesn’t get to eat Thai food very often. Certain people are convinced she doesn’t like it, but she does. It’s a long story. Anyway, when we’re together Thai is often a top dining choice.

Astoria Thai Cuisine and Seafood, in Astoria, Ore., looks like a real dive: calling the façade “plain” would be an exaggeration. But it was on a street full of thrifts and antiques stores, and we all know the importance of location, location, location, especially when it's quarter past lunchtime.

Inside, it was actually quite nice. The simple décor featured the standard mix from daily special Column A, Column B and Column C in an Asian restaurant furnishings catalog. The place is large, clean, with nicely spaced tables. Not that we needed privacy, since we were the sole clientele at 2 p.m.

We ordered orange chicken, tofu pad thai, spicy halibut, and shrimps and asparagus. Each was distinctively seasoned, full of crisp, fresh veg, and served with a dressing-free raw veg slaw and rice. We asked for medium spicy, it was very mild, so the smiling server brought an assortment of chilis, sauces, and dried pepper flakes to stoke the fire. The meal, plus the whipped cream-topped Thai iced coffee, gave us the strength to ransack every shop in town.

Fresh, delicious, very reasonably priced. Multiple thumbs up.

The Picnic Basket, Cannon Beach, Ore.

No way did I want ice cream on this chilly, gray day. I couldn’t picture myself enjoying a cone while walking around, umbrella-free, in a downpour. But I went into the Picnic Basket in solidarity with the sisters and friends, and one thing led to another … This Cannon Beach sweet shop features local Tillamook-brand ice cream in flavors such as root beer float and white licorice (I sampled both, they were excellent: creamy and luscious), plus plenty of the fruity flavors I favor. It was a tough decision, but Oregon black cherry won out. Divino!

Cranky Sue's, Cannon Beach, Ore.

When the carload of sisters and friends reunion attendees pulled into Cannon Beach, Ore., a sign guided us to the perfect lunch spot. It wasn’t a sign from heaven, just a sign that said “Cranky Sue’s.” Who could resist?

The place has a cute artsy décor and lots of tempting logo merchandise. (I left empty-handed: Didn’t think it would pay to advertise my attitude, and was not sure how a “Cranky Sue” cap or mug would be accepted as a gift.)

Each table has a telescoping antenna topped with a flag, which you raise when you’re ready to order. Our waitress was a chatty, dreadlocked woman who was very friendly and very happy to answer all of our questions, even the non-food-related ones (Who’s Sue? Is she really cranky? What’s there to do around here?).

The soups (white clam chowder and a spicy, gumbo-esque seafood stew) rated four thumbs up. The crab tacos were ok, though I wondered why a café located just yards from the Pacific would pride itself on serving only Chesapeake blue crab. Go figguh.

Tea and coffee were served in huge, steaming mugs. The tea selection would put certain fancy restaurants to shame.

The hot drinks, soup and hospitality were very warming.

City Grill, Sandy, Ore.

Wonder why Sandy, Ore., population circa 8,200, has an eatery dubbed the City Grill? With its handful of tables, extensive list of homemade pies, and the kind of waitress likely to call you “hon,” this cozy joint seems like Country Café would be a more apt moniker.

A recent fish and chips lunch special was right on the money, with juicy, lightly battered halibut fillets and hot, crisp French fries. Another special, bay shrimp salad, was ok. Fortunately I sat with my back to the chalkboard crammed with the day’s desserts, so I could resist temptation and finish my fish.

The City Grill is worth a stop if you’re in the neighborhood.

Delta terminal, JFK

I used to work with a guy who said the restaurants he went to weren't rated by the number of stars, but by the number of stomach pumps. As we walked around Murray Hill at lunchtime, he'd nod toward a diner like the Swan or the Patio and say, "I eat there all the time. Three stomach pumps!"

Since I have no idea what a stomach pump looks like, I pictured a poster illustrated with something like three gas pumps, long hoses dangling, proudly on display near the cash register of these late, unlamented (at least by me) joints on 34th Street.

I was reminded of this ratings system the last time I flew out of JFK. The choices in the Delta terminal would rate three stomach pumps, maybe four. The pickins are slim: Burger King, Sbarro, Chili's, Starbucks and the Sam Adams Cafe. I sat in the Sam Adams Cafe for a while, amid unbused, unwiped tables, but ran out of patience before anyone got around to waiting on me. I may have dodged a bullet--the menu was a cardiologist's nightmare.

I picked up a chicken Caesar wrap at Chili's To-Go. The tortilla was soggy, the alleged chicken looked like white-ish Spam. It was nasty. I'm usually a member of the clean-plate club, but not this time.

In the NY Times on Feb. 27, Frank Bruni referred to New York as the finest restaurant city in the nation. Too bad you can't tell that from our major international airport. It's especially disappointing in the 21st century, when you usually have plenty of time to kill after checking in two hours early. And since airlines no longer serve food, decent take-out would be handy for those of us who want to brown-bag it on the plane.

Other cities are way ahead of us with airport dining--Chicago has Wolfgang Puck, Portland has Rogue River Brew Pub, Washington National has Legal Seafood, etc. A restaurant at JFK worthy of stars rather than stomach pumps would be a hearty send off on the way out of town, and a wonderful welcome home.

Fast Food

Uncle WestFester is a road warrior, and fast food is often his only dining option. Sometimes he can contact others in the know for a quick tip, ie. Libra Zebra guided me to great local dive called Oscar's in downtown Philly, but more often than not I depend on fast food for lunch or dinner. My new favorite spot is Chipotle Mexican Grill. Everything is fresh and really tasty. Another huge plus is that they sell beer, just like McDonald's in Germany. Other than Chipotle some decent options are Qdoba Grill and Quizno's in a pinch. I know this isn't glamorous stuff, but after years of Subway, Taco Bell, and Burger King these places are a big deal if you're on the road as much as I am.

Café Mirage-a tasty dining oasis in Port Chester

Café Mirage is a small restaurant located on the border of Connecticut and New York along the bank of the Byram River. This former garage doesn’t look like much from the outside but inside is warm and welcoming thanks to friendly staff and cheery Tuscan yellow walls. Décor isn’t fancy—a few lovely prints, simple tables and chairs, and a wall lined with refrigerator cases housing an impressive and tasteful beer selection. The pleasant view of the little river makes you forget you’re right off busy Route 1 (Post Road) heading from Port Chester to Greenwich. And since Café Mirage is open until midnight, it’s a great alternative to diner food if you’re in the mood for a late bite.

We stopped in for a quick Friday lunch and found an affordable, interesting menu featuring a mix of seafood (mussels, fresh oysters, fish and chips, conch fritters), comforting burgers and sandwiches, and varied entrees including barley risotto, Coconut Curry Shrimp over soba noodles, Sesame Crusted Seared Yellow fin Tuna. The dinner menu offers more options and even includes an exotic sounding ostrich dish.

The $4 soup sampler was a treat—a trio of small cups of different hearty soups—the highlight being scrumptious lobster bisque. The smoked duck & goat cheese quesadilla with Chipotle dipping sauce ($7) was very tasty and had a nice kick and was served on a bed of dressed mixes greens. The mixed green salad with jerk chicken (large portion salads are served with a choice of sliced steak, seared shrimp, Jerk chicken) was also tasty, nicely portioned, and served in a rustic wood bowl. Service was quick and friendly and we look forward to going back to try to explore the dinner menu.

531 North Main Street
Port Chester, NY 10573
Phone 914-937-3497

Open noon to midnight Monday through Saturday, closed Sundays.

http://www.cafemirageny.com/intro.htm

Hunan Village, Yonkers, NY

Consistently rated best Chinese restaurant in Westchester by the likes of Zagat, NY Times etc. and it's true. Absolutely the best in the area with an inventive, unique menu presented in an elegant style not usually associated with Chinese restaurants. Unfortunately, the presentation includes the French tradition of expensive small portions on large plates, so dinner for four can get a little pricey. Decor is upscale and service is top-notch. Highly recommended.



P.S. Hunan Village has taken over the space in Hartsdale of the now defunct K Fung, haven't tried that location yet.

Malabar Hill Elmsford,NY

Vindaloo Vindication
After a two year hiatus from this Indian eatery-reason:my friend found two live roaches in his nan-I was able to overcome my reservations(pun) and give this place another try. The new management has made great improvements to the decor and the new menu was inventive and enticing. They also have interesting vegetarian selections, and vegan choices which don't use ghee. The spicy Chicken Vindaloo and the Tandoori basket were both great, with none of the Indian food hangover typical of so many places. A full page beer menu includes choices from Belgium, Germany, and some interesting choices from Asia. I tried the Indian Taj Mahal, a good pilsener which was able to calm the gentle fire unfolding from the Vindaloo. Service was excellent as well.

Hudson Valley Restaurant Week

Some excellent Hudson Valley restaurants are participating in "Hudson Valley Restaurant Week", which runs from March 9th through the 21st (which is more than a week, I'm confused.)

During the 12-day celebration, participating restaurants are serving up three-course prix-fixe lunches for $16.09 and/or three-course dinners for $26.09 Sunday through Friday. Beverages, tax and gratuity are additional.

Some of my favorites, like Sonora, Pacifico, X20, Restaurant X and Equus are on the list. This is a good chance to sample some high-end eats for less $.

For more info, go to www.hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com

More About Antipasti

The beautiful stone and marble decor made it very difficult to hear and engage in conversation, even with the person sitting right next to you.

When we asked our group how long this restaurant has been open, one of our group said: "Too long."

Antipasti, White Plains, NY

A consumer could be forgiven for having high expectations of a restaurant with entrees priced above $40 and wines costing four figures. But at Antipasti, the experience didn’t add up to the price tag.

Service was so-so from the get-go. Four members of our party of seven entered from the plaza side and wandered through the restaurant looking for the rest of the group. No one approached to ask if they could help us. Once we found our table in the chilly dining room, we sat for a long time without menus. Though there were dishes of olive oil on the table (one of them surrounded by drips on the tablecloth) it took several requests before we got any bread to go with it.

The size of the table presented a problem for the servers. One guy jostled between the chairs to deliver slices of bread from a massive basket, straining to reach the far side. Another dragged his sleeve through the cheese garnishing a salad while stretching to refill water glasses.

Two of us ordered the daily special. Ten minutes later the waitress came back to say she’d forgotten that they were out of it. When the food arrived it was barely warm and not particularly flavorful.

Antipasti even had a problem getting a simple cup of tea right. The tea selection was presented in a wooden box that was far more attractive then the mundane types of teabags it contained. The half-full cup of tepid water arrived with a nice-looking chocolate biscotti on the side. When I requested hotter water, the dish was returned biscotti-less. Eventually I was able to get the server’s attention to ask for a replacement. She brought two, but by the time they arrived the tea was cold again.

It’s a gorgeous space, with soaring ceilings and an abundance of stone, wood and marble. It would make a fabulous gallery or designer’s atelier, but the so-so food and service keep it from being much of a restaurant.

Welcome!

Welcome to "Uncle Louie Eats Out" at foodsouls.blogspot.com. We're a group of passionate diners with strong opinions about the food we eat.

We hope you'll enjoy our discussions, rantings and ravings about all things gastronomical!