Sunday, October 19, 2008

Cafe Mirage, Port Chester

We've tried Cafe Mirage a few times, with mixed results. The menu is intriguing: It's hard to order because I want practically everything. The results have been inconsistent.

The hits: lobster bisque, smoked duck and goat cheese quesadilla, pan fried oysters with hollandaise, a spicy rib steak, a pasta special featuring a lightly sauced spaghetti with seafood; chocolate-topped pumpkin cheesecake. Each of these were so good I'd happily reorder them over and over, if only the rest of the menu didn't beckon so seductively.

The misses: oyster chowder that tasted only of celery, a very light butternut squash soup that also tasted of nothing but celery, steamed little necks with garlic and chorizo -- one of the saltiest dishes I've ever confronted.

The seafood gumbo manages to land in both categories: the seafood was tender and fresh, totally delightful. The gumbo's dark-brown roux had a scorched bitter taste. I picked out the seafood and left the rest.

Service, too, is hit and miss. A woman who may be the owner is remarkably helpful, recommending wine pairings, happy to offer tastes and discuss the different preparations. The other wait staff are ok to barely competent.

However, what they get right is so good I'd be willing to give them another chance.

Rosemary's Texas Taco, Patterson, NY

The decor is the star at Texas Taco, from the moment you park your car on the fancifully painted lot, and walk past the toys and carnival horses and tot-size toy Indian motorcycle in the front yard, up the wonky steps into the other-worldly interior.

Pass the sign that says "No photos," then place your order right inside the door with Rosemary, an eye-makeup goddess who would make Divine look sedate. Find a seat at a glass-topped table festooned with a half-dozen layers of gauze and lame and chintz and Xmas lights. Add your business card to the scores already tucked under the glass. Then, as you await the arrival of your food, let your eyes feast on the lava lamps, the bust of Elvis, the gold-painted saddle, the photos of Marilyn, the neon sign, bead curtains, and scores of other miscellaneous strange and kitschy items.

Be sure to visit the restroom. At an unexpected moment you may be serenaded by Ringo singing "Act Naturally" or Gloria Gaynor's "I Will Survive." An enormous clam shell subs as a wastebasket, the sink and toilet seat are gold encrusted, a skull serves as a doorknob ... you won't want to leave, there's too much to look at.

The list of food available is short and simple (tacos, hot dogs, burritos, chili); it's tasty, freshly prepared while you wait and dirt cheap (most items are two or three bucks); there's always classic rock playing. The place is a total trip. Go. Now.

Ernesto's Ristorante, White Plains

We were hungry and wanted to talk, so even though it was way too early for dinner we headed out to the closest place where I could get the pasta I was craving. We got to Ernesto's at about 5:15. No way were they ready for customers (the head waiter was buttoning his shirt as we came in), but they welcomed us graciously and offered our choice of tables.

Several waiters promptly brought ice water and a basket of bread, and we got into the menus and conversation. Ernesto's has great bread -- crispy crust and light center, yum! We let the staff know we were in no hurry, and they provided some focaccia pizza fingers on the house to tide us over till we made our decisions.

We eventually ordered lasagne, sauteed escarole, chicken tasca (chicken breast stuffed with proscuitto, spinach and more, served with a brown mushroom gravy), one seltzer and one wine. They brought two wines, took one away, never brought the seltzer. It took a while for our food to arrive, and when it did, it was barely lukewarm. Kind of odd, since we were the only people in the place, and takeout from Ernesto's is usually delivered piping hot, regardless of the time of day.

Everything was pretty good, the chicken was a little overdone but tasty, and the serving of lasagne was big enough to share and relatively light -- lots of ground beef, no ricotta. The escarole, which many places serve overcooked and waterlogged, was right up with the best I've had: crisp, bright green, very fresh tasting, lots of garlic, divino!

We order takeout from Ernesto's way more often than we actually go there, and it's likely that we'll stick to takeout in the future. The takeout prices are one-third to one-half lower, and while the restaurant is comfortable enough, it's not the kind of place you'd seek out for its ambience. The dining room is very, very simple -- Zagat's gives it a "7" for decor.

Granted, we were quite early, but the staff seemed kind of flummoxed, the food was tepid, and our bill was screwed up (they apologetically fixed it once it was pointed out). Eating there in the future isn't entirely out of the question, but we're likely to give some of the other local places a try before we head back to Ernesto's.

Asian Temptation, White Plains

Based on first impressions, our late lunch could have been a bust. The insipid pop music was too loud and too beat-oriented; the long, narrow dining room was cavernous and way too dark for a bright fall afternoon; and although the menu offered lots of flavored green teas (some for as much as $8 a pot), there was no plain ol' regular green tea. The place seemed gimmicky. But, hey, we were there to talk and catch up, and the cushiony chairs were comfy, so I knew I was likely to have a very good time.

The white miso soup was so-so, the veggie hot and sour was sinus-clearingly spicy. The five rolls, chosen by committee, were quite good. Everyone's favorite was the spider roll, featuring crisp and succulent soft-shell crab. The others (tuna, Alaska, rainbow, and eel-and-cucumber) were all very tasty and very attractively presented on a square platter garnished with grated radish and a marigold blossom.

The "regular" coffee was a nice surprise, served Thai-style in a pot with sweet, rich condensed milk.

The service was ok, we didn't feel pressured to hurry out of the practically deserted restaurant. So our hang and chat lasted almost two hours.

We all agreed we'd be back.