Espana Wine & Tapas Bar, Larchmont

I'd love to love this place, but I don't. Espana's nicely decorated, pretty comfortable--if you don't count the arctic air conditioning--with friendly staffers. Not always terribly efficient, which isn't a deal breaker, since el tapeo isn't about being in a hurry. But the drinks should come before the food, don't you think?

Speaking of drinks, Espana has a nice wine list by the glass, including Spanish varieties like xarello, txakoli and godello. The wine prices don't seem out of hand, but I say that about almost every place since paying $11 for a glass of house wine in Twin Falls, Idaho, a decade ago.

The menu features pretty standard tapas-bar fare, and some of it is quite good: The marcona almonds arrive warm and freshly toasted, with a generous sprinkling of sea salt. Sauteed mushrooms, too, taste fresh out of the pan, abundantly seasoned with good olive oil and herbs. The bread basket is one of the high points, with a good mix of tender and crusty choices, served with oil and sweet butter on the side.

Strangely enough, Espana falls down on the job on one of the simplest options: the cheese plate. According to the menu, diners can choose from six cheeses. However, there was no choice both times I ordered it. They had manchego, mahon, and a tangy, ash-coated crumbly white (possibly) goat cheese that no one seems to know the name of, served with a sweet-tart dish of preserves and a few thin apple slices. The cheese selection is dull--nothing I couldn't find in a half-dozen stores in nearby zip codes. And considering the quantity and quality, the dish is ridiculously overpriced. Three thin slices of dry, discolored queso, with slight beads of oil on the surface as if it had been sliced and left out all day. To paraphrase an early Woody Allen movie: Not very good. And such small portions!

The menu also lists pimientos de padrons a la plancha--small, mild green chiles, blistered on a hot grill then tossed with olive oil and sea salt. Mouthwateringly delicious, one of my favorite foods. However, Espana has never had them when I'm there--they're out of season till Thursday, or the kitchen just cooked the last order or whatever. Disappointing.

Would I go back? Yes, if I was in the neighborhood. I'd skip table service and the cheese plate in favor of a glass of txakoli and a dish of marconas at the bar.