Saturday, December 6, 2008

Tsuru, Hartsdale, NY

Two restaurants have recently stayed open for me after the posted closing time, that's either a sign of the economy or of the charmed company I keep.

We pulled up in front of Tsuru after 9, just as the owner was opening the front door. We rolled down the window to ask him how late they were open. He replied, "9:30, but please come in."

Once inside, I settled in the empty dining room with the Jazz Den Mother and sister blogger Mean Cuisine. We hadn't seen each other for a while, and an S&S (sushi and sake) get-together was way overdue. We placed our order, with the waiter nodding his approval at some of our choices, in particular plum paste with mint roll. I enjoy sake, but know next to nothing about it, so I chose a small carafe of Kurosawa in honor of one of my favorite film directors.

Green tea and excellent, full-bodied miso soup arrived promptly, followed by our assortment of rolls, including fried salmon, soft-shell crab, river eel and avocado, rainbow, and yellowfin. We were ready for our dish fest, and we dug in, literally and metaphorically.

Our rolls had a nice balance of crispy and tender, pungent and subtle, rich and sharp. So did our conversation. The staff stopped by occasionally to pour tea and sake, and to clear the dishes once we joined the clean plate club.

We were still deep in conversation at 10:30 when the owner let us know he'd like to close up shop.

Tsuru is one of my favorite places for lunch or dinner in the area, and probably my favorite place for sushi except for Sakagura in Manhattan. The service can be brusque at times, but the food is consistently excellent, and I was thrilled that they accommodated us by staying open an extra hour.

Friday, December 5, 2008

Hunan Village II, Hartsdale

Dinner was excellent at Hunan Village II in Hartsdale last night. Everyone in our group of seven, which included at least one serious foodie, was pleased.

Hunan Village II is several steps above your average Chinese restaurant. The menu doesn't include all of the tired old take-out choices, and the restaurant doesn't smell of stale peanut oil. That in itself is a treat.

There's a menu page devoted to creating your own meal by choosing either chicken, beef, pork, shrimp, adding one of a half-dozen or so sauces, three fresh veg from a long list, and a prep style (stir fried, sauteed or steamed). Several of us tried and enjoyed this do-it-yourself option; it's a nice feature.

The presentation was beautiful and the food was delicious and fresh, including baby bok choy so tiny and crisp it could pass as infant bok choy! My dish contained an abundance of oxymoronically large shrimp. My only complaint: the allegedly hot and spicy Hunan sauce was too mild. I'm sure the waiter could have remedied that, but I was too involved in conversation to pursue it.

The dining room is sleek and quiet. We could actually hear one another across the table. We all had a chance to chat and catch up and find out how our various businesses are going, from knitting to jewelry-making to fine art to freelancing.

(See Uncle WestFester's February 2008 post about Hunan Village in Yonkers.)

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Sophie's Cuban Cuisine

Sophie's is a carnivore's delight: succulent roast pork topped with thinly sliced onions, picadillo (a savory ground beef stew), and ropa vieja (tender shredded beef with veg) are my favorites. If I'm watching the cholesterol I'll go with the grilled chicken breast: the spicy version, topped with lightly cooked peppers (sweet and hot) onions and tomatoes, is a better bet than the plain grilled breast, which tends to be dry. Fried fish is usually moist and mild white fish in a crispy crumb crust. Shrimp in garlic sauce is mildly spicy, you'll want to ask for a spoon so you can enjoy every drop of the tomato-based sauce.

The meals come with two sides; I usually get red beans and yellow rice, though the black beans and white rice are good, too. The portions are generous and the food is hearty: Once, in search of a light meal, I ordered chicken noodle soup. It turned out to be a big bowl of rich yellow broth and abundant noodles, plus chunks of chicken, carrots, potatoes, and other veggies. It was delicious, but far from the humble cup of broth I had imagined.

The food is not spicy, but you can remedy that with the green sauce provided on each table: This wonderful puree of jalapenos, cilantro, garlic and onions will add the zing you seek.

I've eaten at most of this mini-chain's six or eight Manhattan locations. The food ranges from pretty good to excellent. When I worked downtown the New Street store was a regular lunch stop, and is still my fave. All the Sophie's stores have takeout and limited eat-in dining space.

Sophie's is a madhouse at lunchtime. If you want to sit and chat, plan to get there before noon or after 2. Some of the stores don't serve cafe con leche during the lunch rush -- lingering isn't encouraged when there's a line out the door.

The service is usually fast and friendly, though recently at the newish 23rd Street store I was waited on by a real beast. The service wasn't just bad, it was hostile. The restaurant was more than half empty, no doubt because there was a monsoon in progress, so she didn't need the table. She committed every service pet peeve anyone has ever griped about to me, from interrupting conversations to plate grabbing to failing to bring change.

For now, I'll stick with Sophie's other locations.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Cafe Mirage, Port Chester

We've tried Cafe Mirage a few times, with mixed results. The menu is intriguing: It's hard to order because I want practically everything. The results have been inconsistent.

The hits: lobster bisque, smoked duck and goat cheese quesadilla, pan fried oysters with hollandaise, a spicy rib steak, a pasta special featuring a lightly sauced spaghetti with seafood; chocolate-topped pumpkin cheesecake. Each of these were so good I'd happily reorder them over and over, if only the rest of the menu didn't beckon so seductively.

The misses: oyster chowder that tasted only of celery, a very light butternut squash soup that also tasted of nothing but celery, steamed little necks with garlic and chorizo -- one of the saltiest dishes I've ever confronted.

The seafood gumbo manages to land in both categories: the seafood was tender and fresh, totally delightful. The gumbo's dark-brown roux had a scorched bitter taste. I picked out the seafood and left the rest.

Service, too, is hit and miss. A woman who may be the owner is remarkably helpful, recommending wine pairings, happy to offer tastes and discuss the different preparations. The other wait staff are ok to barely competent.

However, what they get right is so good I'd be willing to give them another chance.

Rosemary's Texas Taco, Patterson, NY

The decor is the star at Texas Taco, from the moment you park your car on the fancifully painted lot, and walk past the toys and carnival horses and tot-size toy Indian motorcycle in the front yard, up the wonky steps into the other-worldly interior.

Pass the sign that says "No photos," then place your order right inside the door with Rosemary, an eye-makeup goddess who would make Divine look sedate. Find a seat at a glass-topped table festooned with a half-dozen layers of gauze and lame and chintz and Xmas lights. Add your business card to the scores already tucked under the glass. Then, as you await the arrival of your food, let your eyes feast on the lava lamps, the bust of Elvis, the gold-painted saddle, the photos of Marilyn, the neon sign, bead curtains, and scores of other miscellaneous strange and kitschy items.

Be sure to visit the restroom. At an unexpected moment you may be serenaded by Ringo singing "Act Naturally" or Gloria Gaynor's "I Will Survive." An enormous clam shell subs as a wastebasket, the sink and toilet seat are gold encrusted, a skull serves as a doorknob ... you won't want to leave, there's too much to look at.

The list of food available is short and simple (tacos, hot dogs, burritos, chili); it's tasty, freshly prepared while you wait and dirt cheap (most items are two or three bucks); there's always classic rock playing. The place is a total trip. Go. Now.

Ernesto's Ristorante, White Plains

We were hungry and wanted to talk, so even though it was way too early for dinner we headed out to the closest place where I could get the pasta I was craving. We got to Ernesto's at about 5:15. No way were they ready for customers (the head waiter was buttoning his shirt as we came in), but they welcomed us graciously and offered our choice of tables.

Several waiters promptly brought ice water and a basket of bread, and we got into the menus and conversation. Ernesto's has great bread -- crispy crust and light center, yum! We let the staff know we were in no hurry, and they provided some focaccia pizza fingers on the house to tide us over till we made our decisions.

We eventually ordered lasagne, sauteed escarole, chicken tasca (chicken breast stuffed with proscuitto, spinach and more, served with a brown mushroom gravy), one seltzer and one wine. They brought two wines, took one away, never brought the seltzer. It took a while for our food to arrive, and when it did, it was barely lukewarm. Kind of odd, since we were the only people in the place, and takeout from Ernesto's is usually delivered piping hot, regardless of the time of day.

Everything was pretty good, the chicken was a little overdone but tasty, and the serving of lasagne was big enough to share and relatively light -- lots of ground beef, no ricotta. The escarole, which many places serve overcooked and waterlogged, was right up with the best I've had: crisp, bright green, very fresh tasting, lots of garlic, divino!

We order takeout from Ernesto's way more often than we actually go there, and it's likely that we'll stick to takeout in the future. The takeout prices are one-third to one-half lower, and while the restaurant is comfortable enough, it's not the kind of place you'd seek out for its ambience. The dining room is very, very simple -- Zagat's gives it a "7" for decor.

Granted, we were quite early, but the staff seemed kind of flummoxed, the food was tepid, and our bill was screwed up (they apologetically fixed it once it was pointed out). Eating there in the future isn't entirely out of the question, but we're likely to give some of the other local places a try before we head back to Ernesto's.

Asian Temptation, White Plains

Based on first impressions, our late lunch could have been a bust. The insipid pop music was too loud and too beat-oriented; the long, narrow dining room was cavernous and way too dark for a bright fall afternoon; and although the menu offered lots of flavored green teas (some for as much as $8 a pot), there was no plain ol' regular green tea. The place seemed gimmicky. But, hey, we were there to talk and catch up, and the cushiony chairs were comfy, so I knew I was likely to have a very good time.

The white miso soup was so-so, the veggie hot and sour was sinus-clearingly spicy. The five rolls, chosen by committee, were quite good. Everyone's favorite was the spider roll, featuring crisp and succulent soft-shell crab. The others (tuna, Alaska, rainbow, and eel-and-cucumber) were all very tasty and very attractively presented on a square platter garnished with grated radish and a marigold blossom.

The "regular" coffee was a nice surprise, served Thai-style in a pot with sweet, rich condensed milk.

The service was ok, we didn't feel pressured to hurry out of the practically deserted restaurant. So our hang and chat lasted almost two hours.

We all agreed we'd be back.